| INGREDIENT | MAIN ROLE | MECHANISM | BEST FOR |
| AZELAIC ACID | Brightening, anti inflammatory | Inhibits melanin production, reduces inflammation | Acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation |
| MANDELIC ACID | Exfoliation, brightening | Dissolves dead skin cells | Sensitive/ darker skin types, clogged pores |
| TRANEXAMIC ACID | Brightening, anti pigment | Tyrosine inhibitors, fades pigmentation, reduces lines and wrinkles | Hyperpigmentation and melasma |
| RETINOL | Anti aging, acne treatment | Speeds up cellular turnover, boost collagen | Aging skin, acne, uneven tone |
1. Azelaic Acid:
• Main Function: Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-brightening.
• Key Benefits:
• Treats acne and rosacea.
• Fades hyperpigmentation.
• Calms redness.
• Mechanism: Inhibits tyrosinase (an enzyme involved in melanin production) and reduces inflammation.
• Best For: Acne-prone, sensitive skin, redness, and pigmentation issues.
2. Mandelic Acid:
• Main Function: Gentle exfoliation.
• Key Benefits:
• Removes dead skin cells.
• Improves skin tone and texture.
• Unclogs pores and reduces acne.
• Mechanism: An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that dissolves bonds between dead skin cells, encouraging cell turnover.
• Best For: Sensitive or darker skin tones prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
3. Tranexamic Acid:
• Main Function: Brightening and anti-pigmentation.
• Key Benefits:
• Reduces melasma and dark spots.
• Evens out skin tone.
• Mechanism: Prevents the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
• Best For: Hyperpigmentation, melasma, and uneven skin tone.
4. Retinol
• Main Function: Anti-aging and acne treatment.
• Key Benefits:
• Promotes cell turnover and reduces wrinkles.
• Treats acne by unclogging pores.
• Fades hyperpigmentation.
• Mechanism: A derivative of vitamin A that stimulates collagen production and accelerates skin renewal.
• Best For: Aging skin, acne, and uneven tone.
Choosing Between Them:
Using tranexamic acid, mandelic acid, and azelaic acid together can create an effective skincare routine for addressing concerns like hyperpigmentation, acne, uneven skin tone, and redness. However, because these are active ingredients, it’s important to use them strategically to avoid irritation.
Examples Of How And When To Use Them.
Routine and Steps
Morning Routine:
1. Cleanser: Start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser to prep your skin.
2. Tranexamic Acid: Apply tranexamic acid serum to clean, dry skin. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated and works well under sunscreen.
3. Azelaic Acid: After the tranexamic acid absorbs, apply azelaic acid to targeted areas or the full face, depending on your concerns.
4. Moisturizer: Use a lightweight moisturizer to lock in hydration.
5. Sunscreen: Finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30+). This is critical because all three actives can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun.
Evening Routine:
1. Cleanser: Use the same gentle cleanser to remove dirt and makeup.
2. Mandelic Acid: Use mandelic acid 1–3 times per week for exfoliation. Apply it to clean, dry skin after cleansing. On nights you’re not using mandelic acid, skip to step 3.
3. Tranexamic Acid: After mandelic acid absorbs (or directly after cleansing on non-mandelic acid nights), apply tranexamic acid serum.
4. Azelaic Acid: Follow with azelaic acid as the final active ingredient.
5. Moisturizer: Apply a soothing, nourishing moisturizer to support skin barrier repair.
Tips for Success:
1. Start Slowly:
• Introduce each product one at a time, spacing out new additions by at least a week.
• Use mandelic acid sparingly at first (1–2 times per week), then gradually increase frequency as tolerated.
2. Watch for Irritation:
• If irritation occurs, reduce the frequency of one or more actives.
• Avoid using mandelic acid and azelaic acid on the same night if your skin is very sensitive.
3. Patch Test: Always test new products on a small area of skin before applying to your face.
4. Avoid Mixing with Retinoids:
• If using retinoids, alternate nights to prevent overloading your skin with actives.
5. Hydration and Barrier Care:
• Incorporate hydrating and barrier-repairing products (like hyaluronic acid or ceramide-rich moisturizers) to counteract potential dryness.
Complementary Roles:
• AHAs + Tranexamic Acid:
• AHAs (like glycolic or mandelic acid) gently exfoliate and enhance the absorption of tranexamic acid for more effective pigment fading.
• Best for uneven skin tone and pigmentation.
• BHAs + Azelaic Acid:
• BHAs target deep pores and acne, while azelaic acid soothes inflammation and fights redness. Together, they are excellent for acne-prone skin.
• PHAs + Mandelic Acid:
• Both provide gentle exfoliation, making this a good combo for sensitive skin. Use PHA in place of stronger AHAs to reduce irritation.
Routine Suggestions
Morning Routine:
1. Cleanser: Use a gentle cleanser to prep the skin.
2. Tranexamic Acid: Apply to clean, dry skin to target pigmentation.
3. Azelaic Acid: Follow with azelaic acid to reduce redness, acne, and pigmentation.
4. Hyaluronic Acid: Add for hydration if your skin feels dry.
5. Moisturizer: Lock in moisture with a ceramide-rich formula.
6. Sunscreen: Essential to protect skin from UV damage and prevent pigmentation.
Evening Routine:
1. Cleanser: Cleanse thoroughly.
2. Exfoliating Acid:
• Use AHA or PHA (e.g., mandelic acid or gluconolactone) 1–3 times per week for gentle exfoliation.
• Use BHA (salicylic acid) 1–3 times per week if acne-prone or oily.
• Do not use all exfoliating acids in one routine—alternate between AHA/PHA and BHA on different nights.
3. Tranexamic Acid: Apply after exfoliating acids to reduce pigmentation.
4. Azelaic Acid: Use after tranexamic acid for additional calming and brightening benefits.
5. Moisturizer: Follow with a soothing, barrier-repairing moisturizer.
| DAY | MORING | EVENING |
| MONDAY | Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid | Mandelic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Moisturizer |
| TUESDAY | Tranexamic Acid, Azelaic Acid | Retinol, Moisturizer |
| WEDNESDAY | VItamin C, Azelaic Acid | BHAs. Moisturizer |
| THURSDAY | Tranexamic Acid, Azelaic Acid | PHA, Moisturizer |
| FRIDAY | Vitamic C, Tranexamic Acid | Retinol, Moisturizer |
| SATURDAY | Tranexamic Acid, Azelaic Acid | AHAs, Moisturizer |
| SUNDAY | TAKE A BREAK, HYDRATE | TAKE A BREAK, HYDRATE |
This approach balances exfoliation, hydration, and repair while avoiding irritation.
Over-exfoliation occurs when the skin is subjected to too many exfoliating products or treatments, causing the skin barrier to become compromised. This can lead to a range of issues, some of which may require time and targeted care to recover. Here’s what happens:
SIGNS YOU ARE OVER EXFOLIATING
1. Increased Sensitivity:
• Skin becomes more reactive to products, sun exposure, and environmental factors.
• Burning or stinging sensations after applying skincare products.
2. Redness and Inflammation:
• Persistent redness and blotchy patches due to irritation.
• Skin may feel warm or look inflamed.
3. Dryness and Dehydration:
• Over-exfoliation strips the skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness and flaking.
• A tight, uncomfortable feeling in the skin.
4. Peeling and Flaking:
• The outer layers of the skin may peel excessively, similar to a sunburn.
5. Breakouts:
• Paradoxically, over-exfoliation can cause acne as the skin becomes irritated and overproduces oil to compensate for the dryness.
• Small, red, rash-like bumps may appear.
6. Compromised Skin Barrier:
• The skin’s protective barrier is weakened, making it less effective at keeping out irritants and retaining moisture.
• Leads to transepidermal water loss (TEWL), increasing dryness and irritation.
7. Hyperpigmentation:
• In darker skin tones, over-exfoliation can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
8. Rough, Uneven Texture:
• Ironically, the goal of exfoliation is smoother skin, but overdoing it can result in a rough, damaged texture.
